The Hirtzbergers’ 2006 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel proved rather stubbornly closed-in, but decanting revealed ripe apricot, narcissus floral notes, and fruit pit piquancy that led to a bitter-sweet, rich palate. This Riesling is impressively concentrated and compact, with wet stone and apricot kernel dominating a long if somewhat somber finish. It will be most interesting to follow, as it may well open up over the short run and should stand up to 8-10 years in the cellar. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700