The 2004 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel has a hard act to follow and, as has often been my impression, it is not better – but certainly different – than the Hochrain, which in this instance exhibits greater animation of flavor and lift. Toasted almond, ripe apricot, musk melon and honey aromas lead to a palate with honeyed and malted richness as well as pit fruit ripeness more obvious than that of the Hochrain. A decidedly bitter fruit pit note offers a nice counterpoint to so much richness, and the creaminess of texture is met by a persistent if subtle, enlivening note of acidity. The long finish here is sultry and rich, suggesting sweetness and a combination of musk melon and stewed pit fruits. While approaching 14% in alcohol, it evinces no heat.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700