The 2005 Pelago is Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Merlot. An intense, deeply-colored wine, the Pelago offers up plenty of dark cherries, plums, earthiness, grilled herbs and toasted oak in a rich, concentrated style, yet the tannins lack the polish and finesse that might take this wine to another level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Umani Ronchi is one of the Marche’s historic properties. The entry-level wines offer lovely balance but many of the top selections come across as overdone, particularly when it comes to the use of French oak. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725