There are nearly 260,000 cases of the 2007 Grand Reserve Chardonnay, which comes from Jess Jackson’s estate holdings in Santa Barbara and Monterey. Some serious vineyards’ fruit is included in this wine, which no doubt explains the big, tropical fruit-scented nose, fine acidity, and medium to full-bodied flavors. Despite the fact that this cuvee sees 100% barrel fermentation with full malolactic, there is little evidence of oak. The wine is aged eight months, on its lees, in one-third French oak. It is an amazing Chardonnay for the price. The Grand Reserve reds are also noteworthy, with the largest production being the Cabernet Sauvignon (43,000 cases) and Merlot (10,000 cases). Again, these wines are both from Jess Jackson’s home vineyards in Sonoma. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Monterey’s cool-climate flavors of lemons and limes marry richer, more tropical Santa Barbara notes in this creamy smooth Chardonnay. Oak plays a prominent role, lending an edge of vanilla and buttered toast. This is a very good price for the quality.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 91