This is unquestionably one of the world’s finest Chardonnay bargains. It is almost too serious for its price point. The 2005 Chardonnay Grand Reserve (primarily from Santa Barbara and Monterey fruit) spent 8 months in a combination of American and French oak, with 100% barrel fermentation. Crisp and elegant, with notes of orange marmalade and oil, a brilliant texture, outstanding purity, and a heady finish, it is bigger than the Vintner’s Reserve, but remains a fine bargain. It should drink well for 2-3 years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

Big, rich and opulent, filled with tropical fruit, lemon mousse, vanilla cream and buttered toast flavors. Really viscous, a soft, honeyed wine of power and charm. Firm acidity balances the richness.——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 88