The 2004 Shiraz “Art Series” is a bit more saturated in appearance than the Siblings. It gives off an enticing bouquet of smoke, game, lavender, blueberry, and blackberry. It, too, is restrained and elegant but it is more structured and will benefit from 3-4 years of additional cellaring. Drink it through 2020. Leeuwin Estate is one of the benchmark wineries of Western Australia. Both reds and whites exhibit cool climate character and European elegance. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.leeuwinestate.com.au; Also tasted: 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “Prelude Vineyard” (83)