From 70-year-old bush vines, this is excellent Maule Carignan. It has a brightness of fruit that puts the spotlight on cherry and raspberry, and while the color is a brilliant ruby it isn’t overly dense, deep or heavy. There’s a lightness of being to it, but also structure and acidity. Ageable for up to 5–8 years. ——M.S.(12/1/2009)—— 90