Few would hold a Chardonnay more than four years before release. Why does Josh Jensen? The acidity, apparently. His wines do start out on the tart side. Now, this one off the estate has passed its youth and is picking up that baked peach pie, coconut macaroon, dried autumn leaf thing. It’s interesting, but drink fast before it slides into senescence. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 87