Fermented with native yeast, this estate wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pioneer Josh Jensen is classy, earthy and firm. Apple and yellow plum flavors mingle with mineral elements on the palate. It finishes nutty and tart, with good length and a solid acid spine. One of the few California wines that are Burgundian in spirit, this is still tight. Although it was one of the oldest wines we tasted, it can still use a few years to fully unfold.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 89