The proprietors spray the vines with water to encourage botrytis formation, then turn off the water and let nature take its course. The result is a fabulously rich dessert Riesling, full of dried apricots and tangerines. There’s a musky, spicy character too, and a strong undercurrent of acidity keep sit from being cloying.——J.C.(5/1/2001)—— 90