The kinkiest of the Syrahs is the 2005 Bionic Frog which was made with 25% stems. It was aged in Dominique Laurent barrels, 30% new. Purple/black-colored, it has a sexy perfume of earth notes, mineral, spice box, and blueberry. Layered, opulent, and super-rich, the finish just goes on and on. Christophe Baron strikes again. His estate, just on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, consists of five small but distinct vineyards (41 acres in total – with more on the way). Syrah and the Bordeaux varietals are the principal focus but the finest parcels of Tempranillo, Viognier, and Grenache grown in the USA are on this estate. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and much of the estate is planted on rootstock to prepare for the day when phylloxera works its way through Walla Walla. The wines are all fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered.Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayusevineyards.com

Another blockbuster vintage, the 2005 Syrah Bionic Frog is one of the more masculine and structured in the lineup. Chocolate, crushed rocks, wood smoke, iodine and spiced meats all give way to a full-bodied, deeply concentrated, rich and structured Syrah that needs another 2-3 years to fully flesh out. While its masculine, meaty character dominated at first, it showed more and more layers with time in the glass. It should be at its best from 2017-2030.