The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with notes of ripe, smoky orchard fruit, mandarin and a generous framing of classy new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and layered, with good depth and structuring extract that frames its ripe, gourmand core of fruit, concluding with a saline finish. This is a promising but comparatively extrovert offering.