The 2003 I Sodi di San Niccolo is a dark, brooding wine. It bursts onto the palate with masses of dark fruit, new leather, chocolate, spices and licorice. The tannins remain quite firm and imposing. I would give the 2003 another few years in bottle, then enjoy it over the following 10-15. There is plenty of balance and harmony to suggest the 2003 has a long life ahead of it. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Proprietor Paolo Panerai is adamant about it. Sangioveto is the correct name and spelling of Tuscany’s main indigenous red variety. Panerai is one of Italy’s most successful entrepreneurs. His publishing empire is vast and encompasses a number of journals running the gamut from Milano Finanza, an Italian version of Barron’s, to Class and other glossy lifestyle magazines. Since the late 1970s, Panerai has owned Castellare, one of the jewels of Chianti Classico. Castellare isn’t as well known as the trendiest estates in Tuscany, but the wines rarely fail to impress. The last few years have seen a marked increase in quality throughout the range, especially among the entry-level bottlings. Quality has never been an issue with the flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo, one of the true icons of Chianti Classico that remains under the radar. Fortunately for consumers, prices have yet to catch up with quality. Sodi is 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera from a vineyard in the heart of the estate, where the bunches are typically loose and naturally low in vigor. Today Sodi is fermented in stainless steel, then racked into concrete for the malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged 24 months in French oak barrels, roughly 50% new. Consulting oenologist Maurizio Castelli made the first vintages. Current winemaker Alessandro Cellai arrived in 1997. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to take a look at my recent video interview with Cellai. Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolo Key Points: 1. 85% Sangioveto/15% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak barrels 2. Made from a low-vigor vineyard in the heart of the property in Castellina 3. Impeccable track record of consistency and excellence 4. Aging potential: 20-30 years

Beautiful aromas of crushed blackberry and dried flowers follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Solid and concentrated, yet balanced. Chewy. Needs bottle age. Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera. Best after 2009. 2,000 cases made. -JS

Sangiovese is enhanced with 15% Malvasia Nera in this modern, rich wine. It offers sweet cherry renderings backed by blueberry, milk chocolate and molasses. Ripe and chewy in the mouth, the wine’s juicy succulence calls out for lamb, beef or game meat.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 92