The 1996 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is looking mature in color. It has a lovely natural bouquet with loose-knit red fruit, tea leaves, bay leaf and touches of orange rind. "Autumnal" is the word that sprung to mind when Alec Seysses opened it at the domaine. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly savory opening, crisp acidity and a little leafy. There is fine structure with quite a spicy, black pepper-tinged finish. Frankly, it ranks behind what I feel are superior wines in recent years, and my inclination would be to consume bottles now rather than later.
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