Buttery spices and notes of grilled oak make up the aromatic profile of the 2003 Meursault Charmes (white). A fresh, light to medium-bodied wine, it offers appealing pear, nut, and mineral flavors in a broad, satin-textured format before tapering off in the finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

There's terroir here, evident in the mineral and lime notes, and though rich, this has a brightness and intensity that adds extra dimension. Good, lingering finish. Drink now through 2010. 188 cases made. -BS