Slightly Sauvignon-like scents of spruce resin, cassis, vanilla, and fresh apple in the nose of the Loosen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett migrate to a bright, light, refreshing palate. There is a slight shroud of fermentative residues, but otherwise, this is just what the Doctor ordered, and if it isn’t especially complex – and cannot stand comparison with its 2008 counterpart – it should certainly mature comfortably for at least the next 15 years by which time the sense of sweetness will have backed off some. “I want real Kabinetts,” says Ernst Loosen by way of explaining his early start on the 2009 harvest, “between 80 and 83 Oechsle, with crisp acidity, freshness, and the like; and you can’t wait around, especially when you have five, maybe seven days of Kabinett-picking to do and every day ripeness is rising. This year, we wanted to delineate even more sharply the difference between Kabinett and Spatlese, as well as a distinct difference between Spatlese and Auslese.” In practical terms, this meant among other things slightly reducing the levels of residual sugar in the Kabinetts (Loosen says that trend will continue incrementally); and reserving botrytis fruit solely for wines labeled “Auslese.” Eiswein from Lay, Treppchen, and Sonnenuhr; Eiswein and T.B.A. from Pralat; as well as a T.B.A. from Wurzgarten were all – according to cellarmaster Bernhard Schug – in various states of fermentation or preparation for bottling when I visited in September, so consequently I shall review those wines (or at least some subset thereof) at such time as I report on the 2010 vintage.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Ripe, exuding strawberry and red currant, this racy Riesling delivers vibrant fruit flavors, with a hint of mineral. Balanced and delicate, with a mouthwatering finish. Best from 2013 through 2026.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Loosen’s focus on fruit purity is reflected admirably in this pristine Riesling. The only quibble would be a slight lack of complexity. Sweet berry fruit is balanced by racy lime-like acidity, resulting in a wine that’s clean, refreshing and nicely balanced at a low 7.5% abv. ——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 89