The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is arguably the most open and expressive of the 2008 Riservas. It presents a gorgeous soft core of fruit to match an open personality. Although I wouldn’t suggest opening any of the 2008 Riservas for pleasure anytime soon, readers who want to get an early look at the wines should start with the Muncagota. Sweet rose petals add nuance to the vibrant fruit on the structured finish. This is a great showing from the Muncagota. As a reminder, the Muncagota is the wine that was previously called Moccagatta, before the current set of vineyard-naming conventions was introduced with the 2007 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.
Produttori del Barbaresco, one of the world’s top cooperatives, has been making terrific wines for five decades. As good as the wines were in the past, my feeling was that at times the full potential of these sites – widely considered among the very best in Barbaresco – wasn’t being fully captured. The Produttori must have thought the same thing. Beginning in 2001, the Produttori began incentivizing their member growers to cultivate higher quality grapes. At the same time, the winery began a gradual process of rotating out their large 100-hectoliter casks and replacing them with smaller 50 and 75-hectoliter casks. The 2008 Riservas are the culmination of all of that work. I have been anxiously waiting to taste the Produttori’s 2008 Riservas since the end of that year’s harvest, when Managing Director Aldo Vacca told me the Riservas would almost certainly be bottled. Two recent tastings of the entire lineup were more than worth the wait. Simply put, these are the very best young Riservas I have ever tasted from the Produttori. The wines will require considerable patience, but they are stacked and packed with tremendous concentration of fruit allied to structure. It is a vintage Piedmont drinkers love to love, where the individual signatures of each terroir are clearly delineated. Best of all, the Riservas remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Congratulations to Aldo Vacca, longtime oenologist Gianni Testa and the entire team at Produttori del Barbaresco for this magnificent collection of 2008 Barbareschi.
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