The more exotic side of Pinot comes through in the 2007 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix. Ash, smoke, incense, savory herbs and dark red cherries form part of a rich tapestry of aromas and flavors in this utterly beguiling and intriguing wine. There is a level of aromatic and flavor complexity that is unusual for Santa Rita Hills Pinot, except for in a few spots. Fiddlestix is one of those. I also tasted the 2002, which captures the pedigree of these volcanic soils in a dark, brooding style that at times recalls Aglianico. Both vintages show the complexity and pedigree this site is capable of expressing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Joe Davis is straightforward, frank and tells it like it is, or at least as he sees it. Davis’s time in Burgundy, and in particular the year he spent at Dujac in 1994/1995, remains a deeply formative experience. One of the many unique attributes of the Arcadian wines is that they are released with several years of bottle age, as opposed to the majority of Central Coast wines, which are released as soon as they are bottled. The Arcadian Pinots and Syrahs are made with a high percentage of stems, typically in the 80-100% range. Tel. (805) 737-3900; www.arcadianwinery.com