A meld of grapefruit and white currant typical for the vintage characterize the nose and palate of Long-Depaquit’s 2008 Chablis Blanchots, whose strong sense of salinity and alkalinity accentuates its resemblance to a couple of this year’s premier crus and its relative lack of richness for grand cru. But despite its relatively firm, reticent personality, this certainly exhibits impressive reach with its citrus and mineral message, and I suspect we have here a late bloomer that will be worth following for at least 6-8 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200