Melon and lime in the nose of Long-Depaquit 2007 Chablis Blanchots lead to a luscious, silken-textured but bright palate brimming with ripe peach and musk melon, accented by lemon pip, peach kernel, sizzling white pepper, and citrus zest. The alternation of cool, juicy fruit and caressing texture with pungency and subtle bitterness makes for a fascinating dynamic; and a sappy persistency of citrus and pit fruits mingles with subtly bitter, musky, and saline, sweaty notes in the finish. This should be worth following for at least 5-7 years. Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot - like a number of Chablis growers - began picking September 6; took a few days pause soon thereafter; and finished around mid-month. Given the higher acid levels, he elected to slightly more actively work those lees that were retained, one of several instances I noted in Chablis this vintage that countered a general trend in recent years toward lees passivity in Burgundy.Various importers, including Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com

There is a fine steely, mineral character to the wine that parallels the ripe yellow fruit, toast and quince jelly flavors. The ensemble is rich, but maintains the true cool-climate character of Chablis. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 93