Still in barrel, the 2009 Cote Rotie Belle Helene exhibits an inky/opaque purple color as well as notes of licorice, lead pencil shavings, pen ink, black raspberries and black truffles. This full-bodied, rich, intense wine reveals more tannic structure and a more backward personality than it did last year. Unlike most 2009s, it begs for a decade of cellaring. Probably their greatest Belle Helene since the 1999, it is a 40 to 50-year wine. About 50% stems are included in the fermentation according to Stefane Ogier, who is doing such a fabulous job as his father has taken full retirement. (Not yet released)Ogier's wines just keep getting better and better, so if you haven-t yet jumped on the Ogier bandwagon, it's time to do so. Michel Ogier, and more recently his son, Stephane, are the leading craftsmen in terms of wines from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne. These are still entitled to only a VDP designation, but current vintages are the finest he has yet produced.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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