From two sites in the upper part of this cru (bordering Bressandes) and averaging nearly 50 years' age of vine, the Croix 2006 Beaune Cent Vignes is redolent of site-typical high-toned cherry and almond extract. But smoky, carnal, and stony elements (such as one would more typically anticipate from Bressandes) take on prominence on a seamlessly ripely-fruited and finely tannic palate. Plum, cherry, malt, hints of roasted meat, and a saliva-inducing salinity inform the long finish of a wine almost sure (absent a track record here) to delight for half a dozen or more years.
In late 2004, David Croix – winemaker of Camille-Giroud (about whose wines, consult my separate report in this issue as well as in issue 170) – was able with outside investors to purchase the long-somnolent but well-endowed Domaine Duchet. Veteran Burgundy lovers may recall the widespread availability of Duchet wines – often from mature vintages – that where shipped stateside during the 1980s. The wines of his second vintage as Domaine des Croix – not all of which I had chance to taste, and none before their summer, 2008 bottling – speak to both his talents and the estate's quality of acreage and vines. What's more, they promise to offer rare examples of excellent value in Burgundy crus. And Croix's Corton Charlemagne – on which I'll publish notes shortly – is quite exciting.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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