The curiously-labeled 2004 Riesling Spatlese “530.3” refers to the distance marker on the Rhine at Rudesheim. This dry-tasting Riesling is intended as a wine of “Erstes Gewachs” quality standards that Kesseler thinks can best be achieved on an annual basis by availing himself of the option to blend, in this instance Berg Schlossberg with Berg Roseneck. It smells of peaches and herbs, with a whiff of sea breeze. The palate impression is rich and juicy, with prominent peach and grapefruit mingled with cardamom, orange zest and herbs. This exhibits a terrific combination of chewy density with refreshment and brightness. A strong, long finish introduces smoky, charry notes to accompany the spiced orchard fruits, herbs, citrus, salt and wet stone. There are only around 7,000 bottles of this impressive Riesling. Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370