Black tea, brown spices, dark berries, and musky floral perfume as well as mammalian and forest floor scents rise impressively and complexly from the glass of Grivot 2006 Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts. In the mouth, this is polished and refined as well as correspondingly multifaceted. For all of its smoothness as well as its carnal and mineral elements, though, this doesn't lack for ample, refined tannins, and captures a vivid sense of fresh fruit, along with a corresponding cut and refreshment of finish. It is a prime example of 2006 virtues that Grivot adumbrated in conversation, accessible but through-provoking; vivacious yet richly-textured. It should merit attention for at least a decade.
"For me, the virtues of 2006 are freshness, reflection of terroir, minerality, and enormous vinosity. It is an accessible vintage," says Etienne Grivot, quickly signifying that "accessible" should on no account be taken pejoratively, or as excluding cerebral appeal. His aim to reinforce these characteristics by very gentle extraction has proven highly successful. Grivot says that since his experience in 2004 he is determined to chaptalize only extremely lightly – to extend fermentations a bit – if at all, because he believes that depressing finished levels of alcohol will other things being equal promote more expressive and elegant wines. He finds the frequent comparisons of 2006 to a cross between 2000 and 2001 reasonably apt. Incidentally, prices dropped a bit here in the 2006 vintage, an especially welcome move when one considers the high quality of the wines, not to mention the prestige of this estate.
Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400
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