From a dimple-like site above the Chateau de Marsannay that derives its name from the proximity of mother chalk to its surface; the Audoin 2008 Marsannay Les Favieres is scented and flavored with fresh red raspberry, allied to mouth-watering salinity and rather mysterious maritime and crustacean suggestions similar to – if less obvious or sweet than – those of Clos de Roy (which is located well to the north, just below Chenove). Refine tannins and remarkable buoyancy carry through a long, lip-smacking and thought-provokingly subtle finish. “If there were one grand cru in Marsannay,” opines Cyril Audoin, “then I think that would be here,” and after tasting two vintages – the other an elegantly refined 2006 (“it’s always like this,” Audoin seeks to assure me) – I must say, I’m well on the way to becoming convinced! While there’s no need to wait to enjoy this, I suspect it will prove deliciously fascinating for at least most of a decade. Cyril Audoin – who joined his mother and father (the domaine’s namesake) in 2000 – is impassioned about demonstrating what he believes is the largely unrecognized potential of Marsannay, and now that I have caught up with his wines, I can confidently state that I know of no one other than Philippe Roty who is more deliciously or profoundly succeeding in that demonstration, which means that given the modest prices asked for them, these wines represent some of Burgundy’s better values. Furthermore, this estate’s nearly 40 acres of largely old vines (or vines grafted over to selections massales) from a smorgasbord of distinctive sites makes possible striking demonstrations of terroir in action (though that very abundance also meant I was not able to taste quite the entire range in the time available to me.) “I’m lucky,” says the younger Audoin, “that my parents set a model for making very classic wines,” which for him means inter alia no fining or filtration, a single racking, and an elevage of 18 months, the last 6 normally in tank, from which I tasted the 2008s early this year. (The Audoin whites, too – on which I’ll report later – are impressive.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

From a dimple-like site above the Chateau de Marsannay that derives its name from the proximity of mother chalk to its surface; the Audoin 2008 Marsannay Les Favieres is scented and flavored with fresh red raspberry, allied to mouth-watering salinity and rather mysterious maritime and crustacean suggestions similar to – if less obvious or sweet than – those of Clos de Roy (which is located well to the north, just below Chenove). Refine tannins and remarkable buoyancy carry through a long, lip-smacking and thought-provokingly subtle finish. “If there were one grand cru in Marsannay,” opines Cyril Audoin, “then I think that would be here,” and after tasting two vintages – the other an elegantly refined 2006 (“it’s always like this,” Audoin seeks to assure me) – I must say, I’m well on the way to becoming convinced! While there’s no need to wait to enjoy this, I suspect it will prove deliciously fascinating for at least most of a decade. Cyril Audoin – who joined his mother and father (the domaine’s namesake) in 2000 – is impassioned about demonstrating what he believes is the largely unrecognized potential of Marsannay, and now that I have caught up with his wines, I can confidently state that I know of no one other than Philippe Roty who is more deliciously or profoundly succeeding in that demonstration, which means that given the modest prices asked for them, these wines represent some of Burgundy’s better values. Furthermore, this estate’s nearly 40 acres of largely old vines (or vines grafted over to selections massales) from a smorgasbord of distinctive sites makes possible striking demonstrations of terroir in action (though that very abundance also meant I was not able to taste quite the entire range in the time available to me.) “I’m lucky,” says the younger Audoin, “that my parents set a model for making very classic wines,” which for him means inter alia no fining or filtration, a single racking, and an elevage of 18 months, the last 6 normally in tank, from which I tasted the 2008s early this year. (The Audoin whites, too – on which I’ll report later – are impressive.)Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040