The 2004 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese smells of peach jam and chocolate. In the mouth it is creamy, rich, and oily, with peach jam, mango, mocha and a hint of white raisin. This is a highly esoteric and striking expression of botrytis, striking stuff even if it lacks the clarity or lift and the juiciness that prevailed here today and in the vintage generally. This incorporates some pickings originally intended for Beerenauslese.Not many years ago, August Kesseler was vinifying – in addition to the Pinot Noirs for which he has long been known – almost entirely dry Rieslings that were seldom seen outside Germany. Nowadays, he is reveling in residually sweet Rieslings and has launched an aggressive export program with the intention of becoming a major force in the U.S. market. Given the amazing price/quality rapport of some of the wines I tasted, he should succeed brilliantly in that endeavor.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (800) 362-4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (50) 236-9370