The 2005 Patrimo (Merlot) is truly remarkable for its clarity, definition and balance. This richly-textured wine reveals layers of aromas and flavors that meld seamlessly in an opulent expression of dark fruit, flowers, minerals and subtle tobacco notes that linger on the finish. The 2005 is a fairly restrained style of Patrimo, but it is a vintage that shows that this offering is capable of achieving both elegance and power, something that has rarely been the case in the past. Today the oak remains fairly prominent and in need of bottle age to soften, but the wine is delicious even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Feudi di San Gregorio continues to expand its offerings, and at some point it is only natural to wonder if there isn’t some degree of diminishing returns here, particularly after the undistinguished showing of some of the wines in the line-up. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the new range of methode champenoise wines Feudi is making in association with Anselme Selosse. Feudi has created a lot of buzz about these wines, but for now they remain very much a work in progress and have a long way to go before they can compete with Italy’s finest sparkling wines, not to mention those of one of Champagne’s most iconic producers.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Patrimo, a pure expression of Merlot from southern Italy, is always a crowd pleaser, but this year’s edition is a tad more ripe and jammy than past vintages: 2005 was indeed a hot year. Intense aromas of black cherry and blackberry pie emerge from the nose and the wine’s finish is accented by a surprise signature of tart acidity. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 88