This is an exceptionally powerful (16.1% alcohol) Zinfandel. The dark garnet-colored 1997 Zinfandel Old Vines reveals a heady, peppery, Provencal-styled bouquet reminiscent of a Bandol or Cotes de Provence. Well-made in a burly, hefty style, with full body and copious, spicy wood in the jammy strawberry, cherry, and raspberry fruit flavors, it should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 833-4666

This perennial winner features 16.1% alcohol and showcases ripe, rich black-cherry and plum fruit, with lots of smoky oak. Its appealing open, round structure leads into a big finish with gobs of fat, flavorful oak that carries on for a long, long time. This one can handle the alcohol.——P.G.(11/15/1999)—— 90