The 2005 Etna Rosso Serra della Contessa is an intense, brooding red that emerges from the glass in a large-scaled expression of dark cherries, earthiness, smoke, licorice and toasted oak. The wine turns increasingly balsamic in the glass, as layers of mentholated, spiced aromas add further complexity. This powerful wine needs at least another year in bottle for the oak tannins to melt away, but it is another compelling and absolutely delicious wine from Benanti. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524