Benanti's 2004 Serra della Contessa is a showstopper. This blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio is made from 100-year old vines, many of which date to pre-phylloxera times. The wine is fermented in oak vats, then racked into French oak barrels for aging. It reveals notable intensity and purity in its expressive layers of ripe fruit, leather, minerals, menthol, licorice and smoke. Supple, finessed tannins frame the gorgeous finish. Today the wine is quite primary but in time it will likely develop into an ethereal beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily's re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can't add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

This is a benchmark wine from Mount Etna with an elegant bouquet and stratospheric aromatic intensity. The purity of fruit is remarkable and the wine delivers thick layers of forest berry, vanilla, root beer, volcanic ash and resin. The mouthfeel is firm and polished and the persistency is long lasting and very satisfying. Serra della Contessa is the name of a vineyard that dates back to 1474. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 93