There are again only one and a half barriques of Javillier’s 2007 Meursault Charmes, which smells of ripe peach, cherry distillate and honeysuckle; comes to the palate with an impressive sense of density, and a balance of creaminess and vivacity, its fruit accented by peach kernel, toasted almond, lemon zest, and chalk dust; and finishes with real grip, and chalky, alkaline minerality to accompany its succulent fruit. Here is a paradigm of vintage virtues as well as an especially engaging expression of its great site. I suspect it will be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93