The blackest of cherries, spices, incense, tar and scorched earth are some of the many nuances that emerge from the 2008 Barbaresco Sori’ Paitin Vecchie Vigne. This dark, brooding Barbaresco is all about power. The 2008 impresses for its fabulous balance and pure length. With time in the glass, the wine becomes increasingly more refined. It is a striking Barbaresco to drink now and over the next 10-15 years, perhaps longer. The 2008 was aged in 25-hectoliter cask and bottled in June 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.
The Pasquero-Elia family has been producing wine for several centuries, making this small estate one of the historic properties of Piemonte. The wines have received critical acclaim for decades. Brothers Giovanni and Silvano Pasquero-Elia could easily have rested on their laurels. But they knew they could do even better. In the spring of 2010, the Pasquero-Elia brothers enlisted the services of consulting oenologist Dante Scaglione, who spent 16 years alongside Bruno Giacosa. Scaglione is a former classmate of Giovanni’s from the days when they attended the oenological school in Alba together. The Pasquero-Elia family has superb vineyards and already knew how to craft delicious wines, but the continued search for excellence and the willingness to invest in the future is what separates the true greats from the merely good and excellent producers. Suffice it to say, the results over the last two years have been striking. Scaglione is a consultant in the true sense of the word. He gives advice and suggestions, but does not impose anything. Scaglione has brought with him a number of views on more careful treatment of the fruit post-harvest, clear ideas on how to best press Nebbiolo and a greater focus on hygiene. The rotary fermenters are on their way out, traditional submerged cap fermentations have increased, and the use of larger casks (replaced more frequently than in the past) are now pretty much the norm. Paitin tends to bottle a little later than most, so it will be some time before the results of the new team are evident to readers. The 2010 Barbareschi, which I tasted from from barrel, hold immense promise. The Pasquero-Elia family has made fabulous wines for years, but now they are in a position to challenge for one of the very top spots in Barbaresco. Personally, I couldn’t be happier for them, because they have made all the right choices and are therefore richly deserving of the success that now appears to be coming their way. Paitin bottles three Barbareschi from the estate’s vineyards, all of which are in the Serraboella district in Neive. The Serra is made from the youngest vines on the property, typically under 20 years of age. The Sori’ Paitin is made from 40 year-old vines, most of which are planted with massale selection of the estate’s best clones, while the Vecchie Vigne is, of course, an old-vines bottling.
Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Behind The Cellar Door Imports, Bloomfield Hills, MI; tel. (248) 925-6639
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