The 2009 Volnay captures the warm, radiant personality of the vintage in its generous fruit, expressive bouquet and gorgeous overall sense of poise and harmony. The Volnay is a blend of Les Famines and Les Grands Champs. Leroux separates the old-vine fruit from both sites and adds 50-60% of whole clusters to that portion of the wine. The total amount of whole clusters in the final blend is about 15% in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Readers who want to experience the thrill of 2009 without spending a fortune should focus on Comte Armand’s Pommard 1er Cru, which is shaping up to be the one of the under the radar success stories of the vintage. Winemaker Benjamin Leroux is immensely gifted, and the work he is doing at Comte Armand is simply brilliant. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640