The 2007 Pinot Noir Estate is more expressive aromatically. Cinnamon, allspice, rose petal, cherry, and raspberry scents lead to a silky, medium-bodied, feminine Pinot with savory red fruits, excellent concentration, lively acidity, and a lengthy finish. Drink this tasty effort through 2017. A visit to The Eyrie Vineyards where Jason Lett presides is like getting a history lesson in how wine used to be made (and some might say still should be made). From the grape growing through the elevage, this is an artisanal, non-interventionist, unique operation that continues to turn out some of the most fascinating wines on the planet. Knowing Eyrie Pinot Noir’s propensity for longevity, my drinking windows are likely to seem conservative a decade from now. Tel. (503) 472-6315; www.eyrievineyards.com

Classic Eyrie, European styling, and perfectly suited to this rather lean vintage. Impeccable balance, with a subtle mix of fruits, herbs, spices, leaf and wood. The grip and authority of this wine are lovely.——P.G.(12/15/2009)—— 90