David Lett, the grandfather of the Oregon wine industry, is capable of producing fine Pinot Gris and rich, opulent Chardonnay. Lett's Pinot Noirs continue to be among the lightest colored in Oregon. It is hardly a secret that he has been surpassed in quality by a number of other Oregon producers, most notably Ponzi, Panther Creek, Domaine Drouhin, Evesham Wood, and Domaine Serene. Lett's reaction to his critics has been to question the competence of anyone who claims his Pinot Noirs too frequently lack richness, elegance, character, and charm. His 1990 Pinot Noir, which I tasted twice, reveals an unimpressive light ruby color, a vague yet pleasant diluted cherry and herb-scented nose, light to medium body, excessive acidity, and a dry, austere, herbaceous finish. While the wine's shrill levels of acidity will keep it alive for years to come, its hollowness and lack of fruit are troublesome.
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