The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is another of Brocard's more reserved wines, unfurling in the glass with notes of citrus zest, green apple and wet stones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and delicately textural, with tangy acids and a tight-knit core, concluding with a somewhat fleeting finish that depresses my score.