Not yet bottled when I last tasted it in April, Brocard’s 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre leads with apple and diverse citrus aromas that anticipate its tart, bright palate impression. The cut and energy on display as well as the chalky mineral sense and firm feel conduce to a certain severity, but there is such a sense of vivacity and energy as well as an invigorating impingement of fruit skins and pungent spices in the finish as to win one over and leave one looking forward to this wine’s evolution over the next half dozen or more years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report. Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Cool and mushroomy. Spritzy. Concentrated, stony, savoury, acidity, firm, with good length. Interesting, longer term.