The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is excellent, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of crisp Anjou pear, lime zest, pastry cream and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and powerful, with a multidimensional, concentrated core, a racy spine of acidity and a long, saline finish. This structured, serious Montmains is likely to prove the most long-lived premier cru in the Moreau-Naudet cellar this year.