Drouhin’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet is effusively citric and pit-fruited, with subtle creaminess and invigoratingly pungent hints of zest and white pepper and a satisfying salinity complimenting an overall sense of refreshment. There is even a sweet floral breath of lily and heliotrope wafting all the way through to this wine’s persistent finish. It will serve as an endearing ambassador for its producer and vintage over the next several years. Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue. Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770