The single-vineyard 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Nocio dei Boscarelli adds 15% Merlot to the indigenous Sangiovese and Mammolo. It is bigger, rounder and sweeter than the regular Vino Nobile bottling, with superb volume and depth in its ripe, dark fruit, smoke and earthiness. It offers an engaging, enveloping personality but not appreciably more complexity than the straight Vino Nobile. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. This is an excellent set of releases from Boscarelli, a reference point producer for fine Vino Nobile. Winemaking is overseen by talented consuling oenologist Maurizio Castelli. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900