The 2006 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux – which I last tasted lot by lot from barrel and as an impromptu approximation to the final assemblage – dramatically reflects the significance of old vines (and perhaps also of location within the Clos). This smells like an intensely aromatic and rich fruitcake, featuring dried berries, purple plum, brown spices, and citrus oil (all with a distillate-like high toned shadow), accompanied by a roasted richness of red meat and suggestions of caramel. Gently low in acidity yet at the same time suffused with dense, fine-grained tannin; it finishes with a rather somber amalgamation of blackberry, plum, peat, beef, and stone, but also a saliva-inducing savor. Typically for this cuvee, a portion of the wine displayed a more gamey aura – possibly merely a function of reduction – but that was nicely restrained and intriguingly complex in the assemblage. And whereas the premier cru Pommard received around one-quarter new wood (prior to its first racking), this got 50%, of which no portion evinces any overt trace. I would expect the finished wine to be worth following for a decade if not longer.
Benjamin Leroux did not finish harvesting until the end of September, and noted that – particularly in Volnay – his crop was rot-free enough to permit this, and under-ripe enough earlier in the month to demand it! He credits his greening of the rows with having managed the excess August precipitation. As usual, Leroux favored fermentation with berries and stems intact. When I last tasted his 2006 collection, only two of the wines had been bottled, in deference to the estate's usual long elevage, especially in view of very late malos.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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