The 2001 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux is entering its plateau of maturity, offering up a complex bouquet of dried cherry, espresso, orange rind and spice, framed by cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, revealing a good core of sweet, degraded fruit but also a rather firm and austere chassis of tannin that asserts itself on the grippy finish. While some might say, "that's just Pommard," it's the quality of the tannins rather than their abundance that concerns me, and as the wine is already quite tertiary, I wonder whether time is on its side. 2001 was still early days in Benjamin Leroux's tenure here, and this certainly seems appreciably more oaky and extracted than the wines he was making by the late-2000s.
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