From ancient vines in a tiny, square cru bordering Mazis-Chambertin and the Les Gemeaux portion of Chapelle-Chambertin, and catty-corner to Clos de la Beze – and a site most of which Jean-Marie Fourrier owns – the Lucien Boillot 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes displays mote than mere pretensions to grand cru quality. Rich in ripe plum and black cherry fruits, with overtones of rose petal and blond tobacco; savory and saline in its intersection of mineral and pan dripping-like and marrowy carnal elements; dynamically, interactively complex; and impeccably refined in tannins, this long-finishing beauty should be worth following for at least a decade. Pierre Boillot (grandson of Lucien) vinified and marketed together until 2003 with his slightly older brother Louis (who now shares facilities with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, and most of the same appellations as Pierre, and on whose outstanding wines I reported in issue 170 and again in this issue). They then separated their shares of inheritance, which include equally prime acreage in both Cotes, thanks to Lucien having long ago left his family's Volnay estate (now Domaine Henri Boillot) to stake his own claim in Gevrey. My first visit to taste here convinced me that this address and Pierre Boillot's talent should be known to all Burgundy lovers. Pierre Boillot lays great store by lees enrichment, never bottling before the second spring, and then without filtration.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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