Like lightning, this wine hits you with a bolt of power. (Except this zap is acid-driven and exhilarating, not fatal.) Orvieto, made in Umbria, is often seen as a pedestrian white wine one step up from water. But not in this case. Made from early ripening grapes such as Trebbiano, Grechetto and Verdello, the wine has a nice pineapple and green apple character. If you like your whites crisp and clean, this is for you.——M.S.(11/15/2003)—— 86
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