Not as exciting as I had expected, the 2003 Pinot Noir Carneros possesses a light to medium ruby color as well as sweet notes of pomegranate, plum, cherry, herb and incense. It is medium-bodied with an attractive front end, but falls off on the palate. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 257-5300; Fax (707) 257-6022

Tony Soter is at the top of his game, consistently turning out wines that outperform the competition. His ’03 Pinot isn’t quite as monumental as the ’02 Heirloom, but is a fabulous wine, fresh and complex, utterly drinkable now but with a probable life ahead. It’s dry and tart in beef bouillon, cherry tomato flavors, with a sweet cherry-raspberry and spicy oak edge, and a transparent, elegant quality. Best now through 2008. ——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 93