The Rumpf’s 2008 Scheurebe Kabinett smells intensely of elder flower, cassis, and sage. A tart hint of gooseberry enhances the wine’s pungency on the palate and sets up a bit of a sweet-sour dichotomy. The finish comes off like some sort of herbal and cassis lozenge, and is just a bit sticky. Still, this is certainly a ripe and delicate rendition of its typically audacious grape variety, and one that those with a sweet tooth will enjoy more than I did. Conceivably it will age comfortably long enough to knit and for its sweetness to back off. But realistically, it’s unlikely anyone will wait to see. The Rumpfs thought its delicacy lent it to bottling as Kabinett rather than Spatlese, while having more than earned title to the latter. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in certain of their 2007s. “There was just nothing you could do this year,” comments Georg Rumpf, “except let the fruit hang a long time on the vine.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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