The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Ciel unwinds in the glass with a deep and brooding bouquet of ripe black cherries, plum preserve, candied peel and dark chocolate that represents an aromatic change of pace after the Bordeaux blends that preceded it. On the palate, it's full-bodied, massive and powerful, with a rich tannic chassis, concentrated fruit and juicy acids. Right now, however, the structure dominates to the extent that not much more than the wine's impressive outlines are discernible; and indeed, the sheer quantity of firm seed tannin does make me wonder about the wine's ultimate balance. I'm sure it will mellow with time, and I'd recommend cellaring for at least 5 or 6 years, but is such a tight structural corset really necessary?
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