The 2006 Vitovska is incredibly elegant and refined in its sweet, expansive core of ripe fruit. Well-delineated, open aromatics continue to develop in the glass as this silky, complete white gains complexity with air. This is an understated wine of notable finesse. Readers who take the time to contemplate this wine are sure to be amply rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Beniamino Zidarich is a small, artisan grower working out of the rugged Carso mountains just above Trieste. This is an exciting set of wines from a producer who seems to be developing a steadier and more consistent hand with each passing vintage. Importer: J.K. Imports, Pasadena, CA; tel. (626) 824-2411