The 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Guettes comes from three parcels totaling 1.5 hectares of about 40-year-old vines occupying slightly deeper soils, although we are only talking 30cm or so before we hit the limestone bedrock. It has a slightly pinched bouquet at the moment with high-toned raspberry and cassis fruit – quite floral in nature but for me, not in possession of the breeding of the Les Serpentieres ‘11. The palate is much better, offering a Vosne-like silkiness and wonderful harmony that is entrancing. Again, there is a sorbet-like freshness and sense of symmetry on the finish that is wonderful. Hopefully the aromatics will develop with bottle age, so I would afford this 18 months in the cellar. Drink 2015-2022.
The road resurfacing on the boiling hot Tuesday afternoon of my visit almost thwarted me from reaching Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot (God only knows how the tar could have actually melted in those temperatures.) It was a relief to descend into the cool cellars with Hugues Pavelot who works alongside his father. He seemed guarded at first, perhaps more laconic than other young winemakers that I meet, but relaxed and opened up once we began discussing his wines. This has been a go-to address for great Savigny-les-Beaune for a number of years, demonstrating the heights that can be achieved and their 2011s are definitely worth seeking out. There is a simple approach with prudent use of oak that hovers between 15 and 30% new wood.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70