The Pfeffingen 2009 Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs originates in a cooler site and harbors marginally higher acidity than the corresponding Mardelskopf (i.e. “M”) Grosses Gewachs, but it is also not only lower in alcohol and higher in residual sugar, it is simply more engaging in personality. Lemon rind, persimmon, and peach kernel lend pungency and bitterness to be sure, but there are also refreshing juiciness and mouth-watering salinity, along with a gripping sense of finishing stoniness that in no way impedes their flow. I would anticipate this holding up well for at least 3-4 years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463

Subdued aromas of ripe apricot, lime zest and wild herbs. Luscious tropical fruit flavors and a rich texture are highlighted by smoky minerality. Harmonious acidity lends just enough life to the salty finish. Classical in style, with excellent length.